A Taste of Australian
Wine 'Sparkling Reds'
by Gavin Trott
Sparkling red wines, or as they used to be known
in Australia - Sparkling Burgundies, are a particular love
of mine. I’m not sure about the US experience, but many
in Australia were turned off these wines due to drinking light
red concoctions tasting like sweet lolly water sold here in
the 1960’s and 1970’s with names like “Cold
Duck”. These usually tasted like a blend of cough mixture
and boiled lollies and have put a generation off what are
very traditional Australian wine styles that are indeed world
class.
So what are we talking about with Sparkling
red wines from Australia? Well, we are talking about quality
red wines made in the same way as Champagne - that is, bottle
fermented, aged on lees, then liqueured and left to develop
in the bottle. However, instead of using Chardonnay and Pinot
as the base wines, they use quality red wines.
These styles exist elsewhere in the world, notably
in the Burgundy and Loire regions of France, but not in any
quantity, or with the same quality. Only here in Australia
do these tend to be taken seriously, indeed they are very
much in fashion currently, and the range and variety are now
truly exceptional.
What should you expect from these wines?
Well, imagine tilting an empty glass and pouring ... down
the side runs a frothy liquid, vivid purple in color with
violet and purple froth. Roaring out of the glass comes the
smell of blackcurrants, blackberries, chocolate, cherries,
strawberries and more. You finish pouring and slowly the froth
settles into purple red wine with a steady mousse. Another
sniff now shows hints of oak, sweet fruit and firm acid. Try
some .... powerful fruit, dry yet seeming sweet, some acid
and tannin on the finish as the flavours run over your tongue,
berries, mushroom, spice, cherries and more. Makes me thirsty
just writing about it!
What are these wines made from?
Well these days just about anything red. Most, and I think
the best, are made from Shiraz. All that chocolate and rich
smoky blackberry fruit just seems to suit the wine style.
At one extreme we have the almost impossibly rare Rockford
Black Shiraz. In the early days at least this wine started
off life as a quality 10 year old Barossa Shiraz before Rocky
took to it with the fizz. Also try the Rumball which uses
100% Coonawarra Shiraz, or the Leasingham, using the same
Clare Shiraz as their classy table wines do.
Some people are making this wine from Cabernet
too, notably Yalumba, and most successful it is too, lighter
in style than the Shiraz, but not light. After this we have
some beautiful Sparkling Merlot, notably the Irvine. One or
two make a sparkling Pinot Noir like McWilliams and then we
have the something different wines, Tatachilla make a brightly
coloured Sparkling Malbec and D'Arenberg have just released
their Sparkling Chambourcin.
How do we drink these wines?
These Sparkling Shiraz wines should be served slightly chilled.
Naturally this depends on the conditions. If its summer and
you want them with a barbeque for example, 30 – 40 minutes
in the refrigerator helps them, it stops them seeming flabby
and over alcoholic. However, if its mid winter then room temperature
will do fine. In short, don’t overchill, or serve warm.
What do we drink these wines with?
Well, they are fantastic with your favorite pizza, served
slightly chilled. They also drink wonderfully with Turkey
particularly the sparkling Cabernet, and naturally also for
barbeques where they hold their own. Added to this are any
of the meat dishes that Shiraz style wines go with.
If you like experimenting, then try them also
with Duck, char grilled Tuna, in fact, most meats char grilled.
The lighter styles also make excellent aperitifs particularly
on colder nights.
What sparkling red wines should I try?
Inexpensive
Andrew Garrett
Hardys Sparkling Shiraz
Middle range
Mt Prior Sparkling Durif
Tatachilla Sparkling Malbec
Rumball
Premium
Rockford Black Shiraz
Great Western
Charles Melton Sparkling Shiraz
Leasingham Classic Clare
Irvine Sparkling Merlot
Henrys Drive Sparkling Shiraz
Gavin is the manager of the Australian Wine Centre
(a large collection of affordable, rare and cult Australian
wines) and hosts the very popular Auswine Forum (An online
discussion forum about Australian wine) . You may reprint
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